Sometimes it's fun to test the popularity of a restaurant by doing a simple Internet search and seeing what comes up. Plug the words "Seva," "vegetarian" and "restaurant" into any search engine and you get quite the payback: glowing reviews in Detroit newspapers, endorsements from die-hard vegetarian magazines, and lots of personal recommendations from long-time fans of Seva, Ann Arbor's premiere meat-free restaurant.

This lovely, understated eatery has made its home on East Liberty Street in downtown Ann Arbor since 1973. That means that the long-haired hippie-types that first frequented its wood - and stained glass - filled dining room are in their 40s and 50s now. These days, they may dress differently, but have been joined by younger generations who love Seva as much for its great food as its politics.

In 1997, Seva founder Steve Bellock sold the restaurant to Jeff and Maren Jackson.

Says Jeff, "Maren had worked for Steve since 1979. She took over the menu in '84 and was general manager for 15 years, so it was pretty much hers already!"

The Jacksons renovated and expanded the dining room, and put a bar-juice and/or alcohol-in the front of the store. "We experimented a bit. We even had a wheatgrass martini, but people kept sending it back," jokes Jeff.

Other than the bar, not much has changed. Seva still serves a wide array of meatless entrees, some vegan (using no animal products of any kind). There are forays into Asian, Mexican and Japanese cuisines, all rendered with care and artistry. Salads are huge and creative. Breakfasts include massive omelets and Eggs Rancheros. Soups are soothing and filling on a cold day. Children still love plain tofu, sautéed in tamari to a perfect blend of crisp and chewy. And there are a few people who can finish the Seva smothered burrito, but not many. There are fun specials to take note of: half price wine (with entrée) on Tuesdays; Nori Night (veggie sushi) every Wednesday; margarita discounts on Mondays.

Jeff says, "We just do really good, imaginative food that happens to be vegetarian." And all in the same atmosphere of slightly funky elegance that worked so well almost thirty years back.

Seva - 734-662-1111 - is located at 314 E. Liberty Street in downtown Ann Arbor. Hours are Monday to Thursday 10:30 am to 9 pm; Friday 10:30 to 10; Saturday 10-10; and Sunday 10-9.